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Overland to Eastern Europe: Budapest to Belgrade

Day 5: Budapest to Belgrade Panic at Kelenfold Station – it is 10.55, the Beograd train says 11.04 but I was told it leaves at 11.37. I run with my backpack up the stairs to the ticket office where a...

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Overland to Eastern Europe: Belgrade

Day 6: Belgrade First thing – well, noon – we change apartments. We now live here for the next 48 hours, in the roof bit, where Pete is pointing. The lift is thankfully much nicer and less weighty on...

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Overland to Eastern Europe: New Belgrade

Day 7: New Belgrade (Novi Beograd) It’s the bit I really want to see –  the dormitory of Belgrade – built to house the expanding population. Many of former Yugoslavia’s buildings are also here and seem...

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Overland to Eastern Europe: Belgrade to Podgorica

Day 8: Belgrade to Podgorica Goodbye Belgrade – we head for the train station and get in the long queue to catch our replacement bus service. The trains have got progressively shitter as I’ve gone...

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Overland to Eastern Europe: Podgorica to Kotor

Day 9: Podgorica to Kotor A bit of perspective arrives overnight and my appetite comes back for a full English breakfast out on the Hotel Hemera’s street terrace. No generic continental breakfast...

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Overland to Eastern Europe: Kotor to Dubrovnik

Day 12: Kotor to Dubrovnik It’s raining heavily on arrival in Dubrovnik and it’s freakishly cold. We are wearing all the clothes and hats. This is not the only shock. The taxi from the bus station to...

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Return to solo backpacking

I’ve just discarded my initial 600 words on why it was such a challenge to get on a plane on my own and fly to Fuerteventura this winter. The less angsty, need-to-know summary is that I’ve been pretty...

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Inadvertently climbing a mountain – photo essay

Also inadvertently patting the wrong mountain peak. I’m a walker not a climber but high on Gwen Moffat’s autobiography Space Below My Feet, the mountains of Snowdonia beckoned and at Easter we headed...

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A walk underneath Spaghetti Junction

Birmingham's famous 1972 concrete megastructure – which criscrosses the M6 and various other slip roads and expressways – makes as much sense from below as it does from above. Probably less so once you...

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The hill I couldn't climb

Every January 2nd, we go away somewhere with big skies for a few days – to have a think and read books and walk and look at sunsets and reconnect and make plans for the year ahead. It's a great way to...

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